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Winterizing Without Compromise: Learn how to prevent costly damage from storage with compressed air, fresh oil, and fuel stabilizer. Everything you need to know to ensure your classic car is ready to go in spring.

Classic cars are made to be driven – why standing still does more harm than good. Classic cars exert a timeless fascination. Many owners see them as investments best left in the garage. This is a misconception: vehicles thrive on being driven – not on sitting idle. Those who don't drive their classic cars risk damage from disuse, diminish the driving pleasure, and miss out on what these automobiles are truly about: pure emotion on the road. 1. Why stagnation is bad for classic cars Technology needs to be moved: engines, transmissions, and braking systems are designed for operation. Without movement, deposits build up and seals harden. Damage from prolonged periods of inactivity is a risk: Porous tires, seized brakes, depleted batteries and brittle hoses are typical consequences. Depreciation instead of value retention: A neglected, unused classic car loses substance – and therefore also market value. 2. Classic cars as an experience – not as museum exhibits A classic sports car is more than an investment. It's a piece of cultural history that only comes alive when driven. The sound of an air-cooled engine. The mechanical feel when shifting gears. The smell of leather and gasoline. This experience cannot be preserved in a static garage – it can only be created on the road. 3. Get out and drive – the philosophy behind classic car ownership Emotion before profit: Don't treat your classic car like a bank safe deposit box, but as a source of unforgettable moments. Authentic care: Regular movement keeps technology and materials healthy – better than any tarpaulin. Experience community: Outings, meetings and rallies bring like-minded people together and let the vehicles have their impact where they belong: on the road. Overview – Risks of idle time & benefits of driving Theme Risk during standstill Advantage during movement Engine & Transmission Deposits, hardened seals Lubrication is maintained, everything remains functional. Tires Flat spots, material fatigue Even wear, improved safety brakes Seized saddles, rust formation Clean operation, even wear Battery & Electrical System Discharge, corrosion Regular charging, reliable technology Overall impression Loss of substance and value Preservation, care and genuine joy Conclusion Classic cars are not silent investments, but rolling time capsules. They thrive on movement, sound, and emotion. Those who simply leave their classic car parked not only risk technical damage, but also miss out on the essential element: the feeling of freedom, character, and pure driving pleasure. Get out and drive – that's what these cars were built for.

Reinigen, pflegen, schützen — in dieser Reihenfolge. Welches Produkt auf welche Oberfläche gehört, von Polster und Leder über Armaturen bis zu Scheiben und Displays.

Koch Chemie polishing pads in comparison – which pad for which application? Choosing the right polishing pad is crucial to the results of a paint job. Pads differ not only in color, but also in hardness, abrasive performance, and application. Koch Chemie offers a coordinated system of various foam pads, each perfectly suited to its polishes. This article explains the differences and shows which pad is best suited for each application. Heavy Cut Foam Pad Properties: Very coarse structure, high abrasion Application: Removal of deep scratches, severe weathering and sanding marks Matching polish: Heavy Cut H9.02 Special feature: Maximum defect correction, but only suitable as a first step Fine Cut Foam Pad Properties: Medium hardness, balanced ratio of removal and finish Application: Removal of light to medium scratches and swirls Matching polish: Fine Cut F6.01 Special feature: Ideal for corrective grinding after heavy cut or as a 1-step for moderate defects Medium Cut Foam Pad Properties: Harder than Fine Cut, softer than Heavy Cut Area of ​​application: Moderate paint defects when more correction power is required Matching polish: One Cut & Finish P6.02 Special feature: Allows defect correction and good finish in one step Micro Cut Foam Pad (Soft & Hard) Properties Soft: Very soft, hardly abrasion, ideal for sensitive paints Properties Hard: Denser structure, slightly more abrasion, remains dimensionally stable under pressure Application: Removal of finest scratches, holograms and for the final finish Matching polishes: Micro Cut M3.02 or Micro Cut & Finish P3.01 Special feature: Guarantees a hologram-free high-gloss finish, perfect on dark paints Polish & Sealing Foam Pad Properties: Very soft structure, almost no abrasion Application: Applying finishing polishes, waxes or sealants Suitable products: Micro Cut & Finish P3.01 or paint sealants Special feature: Ensures even application of protective products without streaks Overview of pads and polishes Pad type Grinding force Typical application Recommended polish Heavy Cut Foam Pad Very high Deep scratches, severe defects Heavy Cut H9.02 Medium Cut Foam Pad Medium-high Medium defects, all-round correction One Cut & Finish P6.02 Fine Cut Foam Pad Medium Light to medium scratches, swirls Fine Cut F6.01 Micro Cut Foam Pad Soft Very low High-gloss finish, sensitive paints Micro Cut M3.02, P3.01 Micro Cut Foam Pad Hard Small amount Hologram removal, hard varnishes Micro Cut M3.02, P3.01 Polish & Sealing Pad Minimal Applying finishes & sealants Micro Cut & Finish P3.01, protective products Conclusion With the various Koch Chemie polishing pads you get the right solution for every paint correction: Heavy Cut for rough defects, Fine and Medium Cut for medium scratches, Micro Cut for the perfect finish, Polish & Sealing for protection and shine. The pads are precisely tailored to Koch Chemie polishes – so you, as a home user or professional, can achieve optimal results with a systematic and planned approach.

Changing the oil in your classic car the right way – with LIQUI MOLY An oil change in classic cars is much more than just draining and refilling the engine oil. Older engines, in particular, benefit from a structured approach that cleans the engine, removes deposits, and provides long-term protection with modern additives. LIQUI MOLY offers a perfectly coordinated range for this: from engine flushes and high-quality oils to protective additives for the engine, fuel system, and transmission. 1. Engine flushing – the clean start Before adding fresh oil, it's worth flushing the engine. This removes deposits, sludge, and old residue that have built up over the years. LIQUI MOLY Pro-Line engine flush is added to the warm used oil shortly before draining. The flushing process cleans the inside of the engine, keeps oil channels clear, and allows the new oil to develop its full effect. This step is particularly valuable for classic cars that have been standing for a long time. 2. High-quality engine oil – the heart of the After flushing and changing the oil filter, fresh oil is added. Robust multigrade oils are suitable for classic cars, as they provide a stable lubricating film even in fluctuating temperatures. LIQUI MOLY HD engine oils (e.g. 15W-40) are classics for historic vehicles. LIQUI MOLY Molygen New Generation oils or special Top Tec oils offer the latest additive packages if the engine is approved for them. The choice depends on the year of manufacture and the engine's characteristics. Important: Always consider the manufacturer's specifications and the condition of the engine. 3. Additives for the engine – wear protection and smooth running In addition to the oil itself, additives offer decisive advantages: LIQUI MOLY Ceratec : A state-of-the-art ceramic additive that reduces friction, minimizes wear, and ensures smoother engine running. Ideal even for older engines. LIQUI MOLY MoS₂ Additive : The classic solid lubricant. Particularly proven in older engines operating with larger tolerances. LIQUI MOLY Oil Loss Stop : Can help with minor leaks in the engine by regenerating seals. These additives are added directly to the fresh oil and distribute themselves as it warms up. 4. Gasoline additives – protection for the fuel system The fuel system of older vehicles also deserves special attention. Deposits on injectors or carburetors, condensation in the fuel tank, or low-quality fuel can cause problems. LIQUI MOLY offers various solutions: Gasoline system cleaner : Removes deposits on valves, injectors or carburettors. Valve protection additive : Important for vintage cars without hardened valve seats when running on unleaded fuel. Gasoline stabilizer : Protects against fuel aging during extended periods of inactivity – a must for seasonal vehicles. 5. Transmission additives – smooth gear shifts The transmission can also benefit: Older manual or automatic transmissions in particular are sensitive to wear. LIQUI MOLY Gear Oil Additive MoS₂ : Ensures smoother gear shifts, reduces running noise and extends the service life of the gears. LIQUI MOLY Automatic Transmission Cleaner : Helps remove dirt and deposits from the transmission before an oil change. This also ensures that the power transmission remains protected for a long time. 6. Step-by-step procedure for changing the oil in a classic car Warm up the engine so that the used oil is thin. Fill with LIQUI MOLY engine flush and let it idle briefly. Drain old oil , change oil filter. Fill with fresh LIQUI MOLY oil according to the manufacturer's instructions. Add additives : Ceratec, MoS₂ or oil loss stop as required. Start the engine and let it warm up , the additives will distribute themselves. Optional: Maintain the fuel system with LIQUI MOLY gasoline additives. Optional: Change transmission oil if necessary and optimize with additive. Conclusion – All-round protection for classic cars A simple oil change is often not enough to preserve the mechanical system in classic cars over the long term. With a LIQUI MOLY engine flush, you lay the foundation, with a high-quality LIQUI MOLY oil, you ensure lubrication, and with additives such as Ceratec, MoS₂, and fuel and transmission additives, you ensure long-lasting protection. LIQUI MOLY offers a holistic system that is perfectly coordinated – so that your classic car runs reliably, shifts quietly, and provides long-lasting enjoyment.

Car polishing done right – step-by-step with Koch Chemie Professional paintwork restoration begins long before the actual polishing. For ambitious home users who want to achieve perfect results, a clear process is essential: thorough cleaning, decontamination, a gradual polish, and a final sealant. Koch Chemie offers a comprehensive range of products that optimally cover each of these steps. 1. Pre-wash & thorough cleaning Before you start using clay and polish, the paint must be completely clean. This is the only way to avoid dirt particles later acting like sandpaper. Hand wash with pH-neutral shampoo (e.g. Gentle Snow Foam) for a gentle pre-wash Insect remover or alkaline pre-cleaner if necessary Rinse and dry thoroughly to avoid water spots 2. Knead – smooth the paint surface After pre-washing, the paintwork is clean, but often still contains embedded particles (tar, rust film, industrial deposits). You can feel these when you gently run your hand over the paintwork. Use cleaning clay in combination with a suitable lubricant Blue clay for light soiling Red clay for heavier contamination Important: Apply only light pressure to avoid scratches The result is a noticeably smooth surface – the ideal base for polishing. 3. Polishing – Remove defects, build shine Now comes the most important step: polishing. This depends on the condition of the paint and your goals. Koch Chemie offers a multi-stage system that can be flexibly adapted: Heavy Cut (e.g. H9): for severe defects such as deep scratches or grinding marks Fine Cut (e.g. F6): for medium swirls and car wash scratches Micro Cut (e.g. M3.02 or M2.02): for the finest scratches, holograms and the high-gloss finish Micro Cut & Finish P3.01: if you want to polish and seal in one step The choice of pads is crucial: hard pads for major defects, medium pads for corrective work, soft pads for the finish. 4. Sealing – protection for the result Polishing without a sealant is like a freshly waxed floor without a protective coating: The results won't last long. There are several options for permanently protecting the paint: 1K Nano: high-quality long-term sealant with very good durability and strong beading properties Micro Cut & Finish P3.01: if you prefer an integrated solution and want to save the extra step Quick alternatives: spray sealants or waxes if you want to keep things simple Conclusion – the perfect process for ambitious home users A successful vehicle polish is not a coincidence, but the result of a clear system: Pre-wash – gently clean, remove dirt Kneading – removing embedded particles, smoothing the surface Polishing – depending on the severity of the defect, work with Heavy Cut, Fine Cut or Micro Cut Sealing – protecting the result in the long term With the coordinated products from Koch Chemie, you can easily implement this process at home – and achieve results that come very close to professional standards.

Koch Chemie Micro Cut M2.02 vs. M3.02 – A Detailed Comparison for Ambitious Home Users The choice of the right polish determines whether a paint finish merely "looks good" or whether it achieves the maximum in depth, clarity, and mirror-like gloss. Koch Chemie offers two products, Micro Cut M2.02 and M3.02, which at first glance appear very similar: both are "micro polishes" developed for fine defects and high-quality finishes. However, a closer look reveals significant differences in abrasive performance, gloss level, application area, and handling. For semi-professional home users who regularly maintain their vehicles and value professional results, it's important to know: When do I reach for M2.02 – and when for M3.02? Koch Chemie Micro Cut M2.02 – The Finish Specialist The M2.02 is a product uncompromisingly designed for fineness and brilliance. It has comparatively low abrasive performance but delivers a finish that is almost perfect even on critical, dark paints. Abrasive Grade: approx. 2.5 (very fine, only light defects are removed) Gloss Level: extremely high (9–10 out of 10) Application Area: Removal of holograms, micro-scratches, very light wash scratches Pads: soft to medium finishing pads (e.g., black, red, or orange, depending on the manufacturer) Machine: optimal on orbital polishers, but can also be used with rotary machines Special Feature: creates an absolutely hologram-free finish, even on sensitive, dark paints Typical application:M2.02 is usually used as the final polishing step after working with a stronger polish (e.g., Koch Chemie F6.01 or H9.01). It removes the fine traces left by coarser polishes or pads and ensures a finish that looks flawless even under direct sunlight or LED lighting. If you are aiming for a show car finish, M2.02 is almost indispensable. Koch Chemie Micro Cut M3.02 – The All-Rounder Unlike M2.02, M3.02 is not just designed for the final gloss finish, but combines light to medium defect correction with high gloss. This makes it ideal for users who want to achieve visible improvements with just one product. Abrasive Grade: approx. 3.2 (slightly stronger, medium defects can also be removed) Gloss Level: high (approx. 9 out of 10) Application Area: light to medium swirls, wash scratches, incipient oxidation Pads: medium-hard to soft (e.g., orange or yellow, depending on the manufacturer) Machine: also very good on orbital polishers, but can also be processed rotary Special Feature: enables 1-step polishing – defect correction and finish in one step Typical application:M3.02 is perfect for paints that are visibly worn but not heavily scratched. For example, if you want to detail an everyday vehicle that shows light scratches and dull gloss from car washes and weather, M3.02 can both remove defects and create a rich shine in one go. This saves time and product usage. Differences in Application Both polishes are very user-friendly, but differ in details: Processing time: M2.02 requires a bit more patience, as it should be worked in for as long as possible for the high-gloss finish. M3.02 delivers visible results faster, as it "grabs" more effectively. Pad choice: M2.02 unfolds its potential with soft to medium-hard pads to achieve a streak-free finish. M3.02 benefits from medium-hard pads that support its corrective performance. Finish quality: M2.02 delivers the highest brilliance and absolute hologram freedom. M3.02 produces a strong gloss, which, however, is minimally less refined than M2.02. Conclusion – Which Polish for Whom? The decision between M2.02 and M3.02 depends on the user's goals: Reach for M2.02 if… you want to achieve a perfect, show-quality finish. the paint is already largely defect-free, and only the last holograms need to be removed. you want to detail particularly sensitive, dark paints. Reach for M3.02 if… you want to correct light to medium defects in one step and create gloss at the same time. you are maintaining an everyday vehicle where perfection is not the top priority, but a visibly improved result should be achieved quickly. you want to save time without compromising on a good finish. Many ambitious detailers combine both products: first, defect correction is performed with M3.02, then the finish is perfected with M2.02. This provides both solid corrective performance and the ultimate high-gloss result.