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Porsche 964 and 993 Clutch – When and How to Replace? Clutch wear on the Porsche 964 and 993 creeps up on you. Those who regularly drive on country roads or in city traffic often only notice the decreasing transmission performance when slipping under higher load becomes undeniable. Proactive replacement saves significantly more than a recovery after a breakdown. Wear Signals – What indicates a clutch is due for replacement The G50 gearbox of the 964 and 993 transmits power via a single-plate dry clutch. Typical signs of wear: a higher clutch engagement point (pedal needs to be pressed further), slipping under load in higher gears, and a spongy, undefined engagement. Grinding noises when disengaging indicate a worn release bearing. The SACHS Clutch Kit – Porsche 964 / 993 Carrera & RS includes a clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing in a set and corresponds to OEM / original equipment quality – SACHS is the original supplier for this model. Release Bearing and Release Fork – Always order together A clutch replacement without simultaneously replacing the release bearing is not economically sensible. The release bearing of the 964 / 993 sits on the gearbox input shaft and can be changed in a few minutes when the gearbox is open. The SACHS Performance Clutch Release Bearing – Porsche 964 / 993 / 996 is the recommended replacement for Carrera, Turbo, and RS models. At the same time, the release fork should be checked for wear at the pivot point – a broken fork head is a common consequence of driving for too long with a defective bearing. Installation Instructions G50 Gearbox Clutch replacement on the 964 / 993 requires complete gearbox removal – not an intervention for a quick lift. Center the clutch disc correctly during installation (use a centering tool), check the driven plate for shaft profile. The Clutch Release Fork – Porsche 964 / 993 / GT2 / GT3 should also be replaced if noticeable play is present at the pivot point, as it is under load and a break leads to immediate loss of clutch function. For the 964 and 993, the rule is: always consider the clutch, release bearing, and release fork as a unit. The combined replacement is economical and prevents an unplanned gearbox removal in a short period.

Porsche 964 Brake Discs – Wear, Variants, and Replacement Brake discs on the Porsche 964 are often underestimated. Reacting only when there is significant juddering or visible grooving risks damaged pads and longer braking distances – especially with a vehicle that should react identically in everyday driving as it does on the race track. Recognizing Wear – When is Replacement Due? The minimum thickness of the brake disc is the most important indicator. For the 964 Carrera, it is 28 mm at the front, and for the Turbo / RS model with the large braking system, it is 32 mm. If the disc falls below this value, it must be replaced – regardless of its visual condition. Deep grooves, hairline cracks in the friction ring, or uneven wear are other clear signals. A measurement interval at every tire change is recommended. As a direct complement to worn discs, we recommend replacement with the Zimmermann Front Brake Disc (Drilled) – Porsche 964, which remains corrosion-stable due to its Coat-Z coating and is compatible with standard pads. Variants: Drilled, Slotted, or Standard? There are three versions available for the 964. Standard discs offer optimal durability in everyday use. Drilled discs improve heat dissipation and prevent gas pockets under the pad – useful for regular cross-country and track driving. Slotted discs permanently clean the pad and are particularly suitable for sporty use. For the rear axle, the Zimmermann Rear Brake Disc (Drilled) – Porsche 964 delivers the same quality and fits directly onto the standard caliper mount. Always replace discs per axle, never just one side. Porsche Original – When is it Worth It? If you want to maintain the 964 in its original condition or operate the Turbo/RS braking system with the large four-piston caliper, choose the original equipment variant. The Brake Package Front (Porsche Original) – 964 Turbo / RS includes discs and pads in original specifications and is the only choice for restorations compliant with vehicle registration. Installation tip: Always degrease new discs and gently bed in the pads – ten to twelve moderate brake applications from 80 km/h are sufficient. With the 964, there is no compromising on the braking system. Regular thickness measurement, axle-by-axle replacement, and the correct disc type for the respective application will permanently maintain braking performance at the expected level.

FERTAN in focus: The ultimate guide to rust converter, cavity protection and more. Learn how to correctly apply these professional products to effectively protect your vintage car from rust and depreciation.

Winterizing Without Compromise: Learn how to prevent costly damage from storage with compressed air, fresh oil, and fuel stabilizer. Everything you need to know to ensure your classic car is ready to go in spring.

Classic cars are made to be driven – why standing still does more harm than good. Classic cars exert a timeless fascination. Many owners see them as investments best left in the garage. This is a misconception: vehicles thrive on being driven – not on sitting idle. Those who don't drive their classic cars risk damage from disuse, diminish the driving pleasure, and miss out on what these automobiles are truly about: pure emotion on the road. 1. Why stagnation is bad for classic cars Technology needs to be moved: engines, transmissions, and braking systems are designed for operation. Without movement, deposits build up and seals harden. Damage from prolonged periods of inactivity is a risk: Porous tires, seized brakes, depleted batteries and brittle hoses are typical consequences. Depreciation instead of value retention: A neglected, unused classic car loses substance – and therefore also market value. 2. Classic cars as an experience – not as museum exhibits A classic sports car is more than an investment. It's a piece of cultural history that only comes alive when driven. The sound of an air-cooled engine. The mechanical feel when shifting gears. The smell of leather and gasoline. This experience cannot be preserved in a static garage – it can only be created on the road. 3. Get out and drive – the philosophy behind classic car ownership Emotion before profit: Don't treat your classic car like a bank safe deposit box, but as a source of unforgettable moments. Authentic care: Regular movement keeps technology and materials healthy – better than any tarpaulin. Experience community: Outings, meetings and rallies bring like-minded people together and let the vehicles have their impact where they belong: on the road. Overview – Risks of idle time & benefits of driving Theme Risk during standstill Advantage during movement Engine & Transmission Deposits, hardened seals Lubrication is maintained, everything remains functional. Tires Flat spots, material fatigue Even wear, improved safety brakes Seized saddles, rust formation Clean operation, even wear Battery & Electrical System Discharge, corrosion Regular charging, reliable technology Overall impression Loss of substance and value Preservation, care and genuine joy Conclusion Classic cars are not silent investments, but rolling time capsules. They thrive on movement, sound, and emotion. Those who simply leave their classic car parked not only risk technical damage, but also miss out on the essential element: the feeling of freedom, character, and pure driving pleasure. Get out and drive – that's what these cars were built for.

Clean, care, protect — in that order. Which product belongs on which surface, from upholstery and leather to fittings, windows and displays.

Koch Chemie Polishing Pads Compared – Which Pad for Which Application? The choice of the right polishing pad is crucial for the result of a paint correction. Pads differ not only in color, but primarily in hardness, abrasive performance, and area of application. Koch Chemie offers a coordinated system of different foam pads, each perfectly matched to the brand's polishes. This article explains the differences and shows which pad is best suited for which purpose. Heavy Cut Polishing Pad Properties: Very coarse structure, high abrasion Area of Application: Removal of deep scratches, heavy weathering, and sanding marks Matching Polish: Heavy Cut H9.02 Special Feature: Maximum defect correction, but only suitable as a first step Fine Cut Polishing Pad Properties: Medium hardness, balanced ratio of removal and finish Area of Application: Removal of light to medium scratches and swirls Matching Polish: Fine Cut F6.01 Special Feature: Ideal for correction after Heavy Cut or as a 1-step for moderate defects One Cut Polishing Pad Properties: Harder than Fine Cut, softer than Heavy Cut Area of Application: Medium paint defects, when more correction power is needed Matching Polish: One Cut & Finish P6.02 Special Feature: Enables defect correction and good finish in one step Micro Cut Polishing Pad (soft & hard) Soft Properties: Very soft, hardly any abrasion, ideal for sensitive paints Hard Properties: Denser structure, slightly more abrasion, remains dimensionally stable under pressure Area of Application: Removal of fine scratches, holograms, and for the final finish Matching Polishes: Micro Cut M3.02, Micro Cut M2.02 or Micro Cut & Finish P3.01 Special Feature: Guarantees a hologram-free high-gloss finish, perfect on dark paints Polish & Sealing Polishing Pad Properties: Very soft structure, virtually no abrasive action Area of Application: Applying finish polishes, waxes, or sealants Matching Products: Micro Cut & Finish P3.01, 1K-Nano or ProtectorWax Special Feature: Ensures even application of protective products without streaks Overview of Pads and Polishes Pad Type Abrasiveness Typical Application Recommended Polish Heavy Cut Polishing Pad Very high Deep scratches, heavy defects Heavy Cut H9.02 One Cut Polishing Pad Medium-high Medium defects, all-round correction One Cut & Finish P6.02 Fine Cut Polishing Pad Medium Light to medium scratches, swirls Fine Cut F6.01 Micro Cut Polishing Pad soft Very low High-gloss finish, sensitive paints M3.02, P3.01 Micro Cut Polishing Pad hard Low Hologram removal, hard paints M2.02, P3.01 Polish & Sealing Polishing Pad Minimal Applying finish & sealants P3.01, 1K-Nano Conclusion With the various Koch Chemie Polishing Pads, you get the right solution for every paint correction: Heavy Cut for coarse defects, Fine and One Cut for medium scratches, Micro Cut for the perfect finish, Polish & Sealing for protection and shine. The pads are precisely matched to Koch Chemie polishes – so you, whether a home user or professional, can achieve optimal results systematically and purposefully. The article Proper Vehicle Polishing Done Right shows the complete process. Unsure which pad suits your paintwork? Write to us briefly — two photos are usually enough for a clear recommendation. → To the entire Koch Chemie product range

Changing the oil in your classic car the right way – with LIQUI MOLY An oil change in classic cars is much more than just draining and refilling the engine oil. Older engines, in particular, benefit from a structured approach that cleans the engine, removes deposits, and provides long-term protection with modern additives. LIQUI MOLY offers a perfectly coordinated range for this: from engine flushes and high-quality oils to protective additives for the engine, fuel system, and transmission. 1. Engine flushing – the clean start Before adding fresh oil, it's worth flushing the engine. This removes deposits, sludge, and old residue that have built up over the years. LIQUI MOLY Pro-Line engine flush is added to the warm used oil shortly before draining. The flushing process cleans the inside of the engine, keeps oil channels clear, and allows the new oil to develop its full effect. This step is particularly valuable for classic cars that have been standing for a long time. 2. High-quality engine oil – the heart of the After flushing and changing the oil filter, fresh oil is added. Robust multigrade oils are suitable for classic cars, as they provide a stable lubricating film even in fluctuating temperatures. LIQUI MOLY HD engine oils (e.g. 15W-40) are classics for historic vehicles. LIQUI MOLY Molygen New Generation oils or special Top Tec oils offer the latest additive packages if the engine is approved for them. The choice depends on the year of manufacture and the engine's characteristics. Important: Always consider the manufacturer's specifications and the condition of the engine. 3. Additives for the engine – wear protection and smooth running In addition to the oil itself, additives offer decisive advantages: LIQUI MOLY Ceratec : A state-of-the-art ceramic additive that reduces friction, minimizes wear, and ensures smoother engine running. Ideal even for older engines. LIQUI MOLY MoS₂ Additive : The classic solid lubricant. Particularly proven in older engines operating with larger tolerances. LIQUI MOLY Oil Loss Stop : Can help with minor leaks in the engine by regenerating seals. These additives are added directly to the fresh oil and distribute themselves as it warms up. 4. Gasoline additives – protection for the fuel system The fuel system of older vehicles also deserves special attention. Deposits on injectors or carburetors, condensation in the fuel tank, or low-quality fuel can cause problems. LIQUI MOLY offers various solutions: Gasoline system cleaner : Removes deposits on valves, injectors or carburettors. Valve protection additive : Important for vintage cars without hardened valve seats when running on unleaded fuel. Gasoline stabilizer : Protects against fuel aging during extended periods of inactivity – a must for seasonal vehicles. 5. Transmission additives – smooth gear shifts The transmission can also benefit: Older manual or automatic transmissions in particular are sensitive to wear. LIQUI MOLY Gear Oil Additive MoS₂ : Ensures smoother gear shifts, reduces running noise and extends the service life of the gears. LIQUI MOLY Automatic Transmission Cleaner : Helps remove dirt and deposits from the transmission before an oil change. This also ensures that the power transmission remains protected for a long time. 6. Step-by-step procedure for changing the oil in a classic car Warm up the engine so that the used oil is thin. Fill with LIQUI MOLY engine flush and let it idle briefly. Drain old oil , change oil filter. Fill with fresh LIQUI MOLY oil according to the manufacturer's instructions. Add additives : Ceratec, MoS₂ or oil loss stop as required. Start the engine and let it warm up , the additives will distribute themselves. Optional: Maintain the fuel system with LIQUI MOLY gasoline additives. Optional: Change transmission oil if necessary and optimize with additive. Conclusion – All-round protection for classic cars A simple oil change is often not enough to preserve the mechanical system in classic cars over the long term. With a LIQUI MOLY engine flush, you lay the foundation, with a high-quality LIQUI MOLY oil, you ensure lubrication, and with additives such as Ceratec, MoS₂, and fuel and transmission additives, you ensure long-lasting protection. LIQUI MOLY offers a holistic system that is perfectly coordinated – so that your classic car runs reliably, shifts quietly, and provides long-lasting enjoyment.

Proper Vehicle Polishing – Step-by-Step with Koch Chemie Professional paint detailing begins long before the actual polishing. Ambitious home users aiming for a perfect result need a clear process: thorough cleaning, decontamination, graded polishing, and final sealing. Koch Chemie offers a comprehensive range that perfectly covers each of these steps. 1. Pre-Wash & Thorough Cleaning Before moving on to claying and polishing, the paint must be completely clean. This is the only way to prevent dirt particles from acting like sandpaper later on. Hand wash with pH-neutral shampoo — such as Gentle Snow Foam for a gentle pre-wash or NanoMagic Shampoo for hand washing Insect remover or alkaline pre-cleaners, if necessary — Insect&Dirt Remover Rinse thoroughly and dry to avoid water spots 2. Claying – Smoothing the Paint Surface After the pre-wash, the paint is clean but often still contaminated with embedded particles (tar, rail dust, industrial fallout). You can feel these by gently running your hand over the paint. Use detailing clay in combination with a suitable lubricant — Clay Spray is suitable as a lubricant Blue clay for light contamination Red clay for heavier contamination Important: Work with light pressure only to avoid scratches The result is a noticeably smooth surface – the ideal base for polishing. 3. Polishing – Removing Defects, Building Shine Now comes the most important step: polishing. This depends on the condition of the paint and your goals. Koch Chemie offers a multi-stage system that can be flexibly adapted: Heavy Cut H9.02: for severe defects like deep scratches or sanding marks — use with the Heavy Cut Polishing Pad Fine Cut F6.01: for medium swirls and car wash scratches — use with the Fine Cut Polishing Pad Micro Cut (M3.02 or M2.02): for finest scratches, holograms, and a high-gloss finish — use with the Micro Cut Soft Foam Pad Micro Cut & Finish P3.01: if you want to polish and seal in one step The choice of pads is crucial: hard pads for severe defects, medium pads for correction work, soft pads for finishing. A detailed comparison can be found in the article Polishing Pads Compared. 4. Sealing – Protecting the Result Polishing without sealing is like a freshly waxed floor without a protective layer: the result won't last long. To protect the paint permanently, there are various options: 1K-Nano: high-quality long-term sealant with excellent durability and strong beading properties Micro Cut & Finish P3.01: if you prefer an integrated solution and want to save an extra step — applied with the Polish & Sealing Polishing Pad Quick alternatives: Spray Sealant or ProtectorWax for straightforward application Conclusion – The Perfect Process for Ambitious Home Users Successful vehicle polishing is not by chance but the result of a clear system: Pre-wash – gentle cleaning, removing dirt Claying – removing embedded particles, smoothing the surface Polishing – using Heavy Cut, Fine Cut, or Micro Cut depending on defect severity Sealing – protecting the result long-term With the coordinated products from Koch Chemie, you can easily implement this process at home – and achieve results that come very close to professional standards. Everything for the Process in Our Shop Step 1 – Washing: Gentle Snow Foam, NanoMagic Shampoo, Insect&Dirt Remover Step 2 – Claying: Blue Clay, Red Clay, Clay Spray Step 3 – Polishing: H9.02, F6.01, M3.02, M2.02 Step 4 – Sealing: 1K-Nano, Spray Sealant, ProtectorWax Unsure which abrasive level your paint needs? Send us a quick message — two photos of the paint are usually enough for a clear recommendation. → To the entire Koch Chemie range